1. What is the best method of applying your liquid rubber?

2. Can i paint liquid rubber straight over the dips & cracks in my current roof?

3. My roof has expansion joints - can I still use Rubba roof Pro?

4. Will Rubba-Roof Professional™ repair holes in rigid sheet roofing?

5. Can I use Rubba-Roof to repair leaking abutments, flashing, valley gutters?

6. Do I have to remove my old bitumin flat roof surface (roofing felt, asphalt)?

7. My garage roof has a porous surface - will Rubba-Roof still work?

8. Will Rubba-Roof Professional adhere to metal surfaces?

9. I have a new extension with a flat ply-wood roof - will your product work?

10. I have leaking cracks in my roof surface. what type of scrim do you recommend?

11. My DIY store doesn't sell nylon scrim or rubber squeegies! Do you supply them?

 

1. What is the best method of applying your liquid rubber?

 

Rubba-Roof Pro™ can be applied by using a firm-bristled paint brush, long or short-handled squeegee, or an airless spray.

 

If spray application is used, a Graco King/President 60:1 ratio, or equivalent is necessary.

Compressor: 100 psi 60cfm.
Tip size: 28/30 thou, 60 angle.
NOTE: stir slowly but thoroughly before using when spraying.

 

2. Can I paint liquid rubber straight over the dips & cracks in my current roof?

Cracks not liable to movement should be filled with a waterproof mastic filler. Allow for the solvent in the filler to thoroughly evaporate & for the mastic to set. Deep depressions should be similarly treated. Prime porous surfaces with Rubba-Roof Pro Primer. Apply 2, 1mm coats of Rubba-Roof Pro over the filled cracks & depressions. In areas where standing water may occur, 3 coats should be applied. Scrim reinforcement may be used in the middle layer. Do not apply any coat at more than 2mm thick, but any number of coats can be applied, with 24 hr intervals.

 

3. My roof has expansion joints / cracks - can I still use Rubba Roof Pro™?

Joints and 'live' cracks should be overbanded as follows:

 

Clean surrounding surfaces. Where joint sealant does not fill the joint, pour in Rubba-Roof Professional flush with surface. If porous- prime joint and 150mm strip either side to a minimum width of 300mm. Apply a coat of Rubba-Roof Pro and whilst still wet, embed 300mm wide strips of reinforcing fabric scrim into the membrane, overlapping where necessary and avoiding creases and bubbles. Overcoat immediately, extending at least 15mm to either side. Do not stretch the scrim. Bolt heads etc. should be given 2 coats before the general application.

 

4. Will rubba-roof pro™ repair holes in rigid sheet roofing?

Holes and cracks in sheet roofing cannot easily be repaired with mastic material, as the sheet has no appreciable thickness in which to provide a key. Damage should therefore be over-banded as described above. When a hole is being patched with scrim, the overlap must be large enough to prevent the impregnation scrim sagging. Large holes in sheet roofing will necessitate replacement of the whole sheet.

 

5. Can I use Rubba-Roof to repair leaking abutments, flashing, valley gutters?

Rubba-Roof Professional is self-flashing and can be used to create upstands. In such cases the angle between the vertical and horizontal surfaces should be over-banded with a 300mm scrim reinforcement. This should be embedded into the first coat as it is applied, and carefully rolled to prevent creases and bubbles. The scrim should be installed 150mm up the vertical and 150mm on the horizontal. Apply 2 coats of Rubba-Roof Professional. Alternatively a cant strip or cover fillet can be installed at the vertical/horizontal joint in order to reduce the membrane stresses at a right angle.

 

6. Do I have to remove my old, bitumin based flat roof surface (roofing felt, asphalt)?

No, it isn't necessary to remove your old roof surface, but it is essential that you remove all loose chippings, dust, fungal growth etc and fill any cracks and depressions prior to application of Rubba-Roof Professional.

 

Note that where chippings remain embedded, the surface area is substantially increased and will require a commensurately greater amount of coating in order to provide the minimum thickness. Allow to dry thoroughly, including the evaporation of moisture from within the layers of felt. At least 3 coats are recommended over chippings. Cut open any blisters and coat the underside with Rubba-Roof Pro and secure with felt nails, brushing out any exuded liquid rubber. Rubba-Roof Primer should be used on aged felt which has become friable but primer is not necessary on good surfaces. Apply Rubba-Roof Pro as directed above.

 

7. My garage roof has a porous surface - will Rubba-Roof still work?

It is essential to prime all porous surfaces such as; cementious surfaces, concrete, render

corrugated asbestos sheet & ferrous metals, terracota, etc. - with Rubba-Roof Primer, prior to application of our liquid rubber coating.

 

Rubba-Roof Primer is not a viscous product & is therefore very quick & easy to apply.

 

You must allow at least 28 days drying time for new concrete. Remove all laitance, all loose and foreign material and snots. All friable or dusting surfaces must be cleaned back to a firm base. Any plant or fungal growth should be removed completely. The application of a fungicidal wash is recommended if growth is excessive. Apply Rubba-Roof primer – on very absorbent surfaces, 2 applications of primer are recommended. For initial priming coat, Rubba-Roof Pro primer may be diluted up to 20% with Rubba-Roof Pro solvent. Follow by 1 or 2 applications of Rubba-Roof Pro.

 

8. Will Rubba-Roof Professional adhere to metal surfaces?

For ferrous metal substrates, remove any previously applied coatings, rust and scale by mechanical means, or wire brush if rust is only superficial. Apply Rubba-Roof Pro primer to dusty surfaces. Prepare the surface immediately prior to coating to prevent flash rusting. Apply one or two coats of Rubba-Roof Pro.

 

Do not apply to deeply rusted surfaces without first treating with anti-corrosive primer.

 

Non-ferrous surfaces such as lead, copper, brass, stainless steel and sound galvanizing should be cleaned and thoroughly degreased before application of Rubba-Rood Pro™. Damaged/rusted galvanised sheet should be treated as for ferrous substrates.

 

9. I'm building an extension with a flat ply wood roof - will Rubba-Roof work?

Rubba-Roof Professional™ adheres to wooden surfaces & is a perfect choice of roof membrane for weather-proofing new builds & the maintenance of old. However, as with all DIY jobs, care must always be taken when preparing any substrate prior to coating.

 

Remove all paint and varnish to a clean and dust-free surface and then apply Rubba-Roof Pro directly to the wood, ensuring the surface is dry beforehand. Always use Rubba-Roof Pro Primer™ on timber roofing, unseasoned material which is likely to be damp or porous chipboard and plywood. Ensure that chipboard or plywood is exterior quality and establish that no silicone, stearate or other water repellent treatment has been previously applied.

 

10. What type of scrim do you recommend for use on joints and cracks?

Firstly, you must establish whether the gaps are subject to movement or not (see questions 2 & 3) We recommend you use a nylon scrim with our liquid rubber roofing, which can usually be be purchased cheaply, from any local builders merchant.

 

11. My DIY store doesn't sell nylon scrim or rubber squeegies! Do you supply them?

Currently we do not sell nylon scrim or application tools through our website but can recommend some online shops that do:

 

Please contact us > here < if you require a list of recommended online resources for nylon scrim cloth and/or rubber squeegee suppliers